The Solo is a boat with a relatively simple rig. Once you are on the water there is little adjustment possible. It is essential therefore that you get the right rig settings before launching.

When setting up a new boat you need to establish the following:

Mast foot position

The distance from the front of the mast at the heel to the outside of the transom should be 3050mm

Forestay tension (use HA4272 Holt Allen adjuster and a Fast pin)

As a starting point set the forestay so that when the mast (without sail) is touching the back of the mast gate the forestay is just in tension. Mark this position on the adjuster. It is possible to adjust this on the water by back chocking the mast and letting off all the controls. It’s also possible to get very wet doing this.

Shroud tension (use HA4272 Holt Allen adjuster)

Set the shroud tension so that when the mast is 5mm from the front of the gate the shrouds are just in tension. Mark this position on the adjusters.

Centreboard position

Turn the boat on it’s side and fully lower the board so that the handle is touching the thwart. In this position the board should have 25mm of forward rake. Now lift the board and mark the handle when the leading edge is vertical, relative to the bottom of the case. Lift the board further until the trailing edge is vertical and mark the handle. The board needs to be just tight enough in the case so that it stays where you set it, but you can easily adjust it with your foot when hiked upwind.

Mast chock

Use 1 chock which just fits in the gap between the front of the mast and the front of the gate.

By relating these marks to the chart below you can now set the rig, sail controls and centreboard to suit the prevailing conditions.

Because Solo’s are relatively easy to sail a boatspeed advantage is hard to find. The settings I use are based around a Solo sailor weighing 82kg using a Proctor Cumulus mast and North sail. However these settings still apply providing you use the correct mast and sail combination for your weight. If in doubt check with your sailmaker. The settings are dependent on sea state, weight, mast, sail and fitness. So in a force 3 a 90kg helm would be on full power settings whereas a 75kg helm with the same rig would be on overpowered settings. The overlap between settings can be achieved with a combination of rig, sail and centreboard adjustment. There are different ways to achieve the same result. If for example you are caught out with full power settings in over powered conditions raise the centreboard further, use more cunningham and outhaul tension and sail with more twist. Although not quite as quick as easing shroud and forestay tension this would allow you to hang on and still be able to point. If you sail on restricted waters it is usually worth fixing the shroud and forestay and relying on sail controls and centreboard position to adapt to wind speed changes.

Use a combination of mainsheet tension and traveller position to find the best speed upwind. As a general rule start in light winds with the traveller on the centreline and little mainsheet tension. As the wind increases use more mainsheet tension and ease the traveller to stop the boom getting too close to the centreline.

Kicker tension in light winds should be set just slack so that it controls leech twist out of tacks. In medium and heavy winds set the kicker tight enough for the first reach this should give plenty of clearance for tacking. Once fully overpowered use kicker upwind to increase low down mast bend and flatten the mainsail.

In Solo’s body position is extremely important. In very light airs your body weight should be centred on the thwart do not move forward of this point however light it is. Once you are sat on the side deck move back so that your front leg is pressed against the thwart. As you become fully hiked move back to 150mm from thwart, and then up to 300mm as the wind increases.

Offwind

Use only enough centreboard so that the rudder is neutral when the boat is flat with the following sail settings;

Light airs:

Leave the Outhaul on it’s upwind setting. The kicker should be just in tension.

Medium airs:

Ease Outhaul so that lens foot is fully eased (you should have a knot in the control which hits the bottom of the boom when lens is fully eased). Set the Kicker so that the bottom of the sail needs to be slightly oversheeted to keep the top set. In medium airs the kicker tension is a compromise between leech tension and keeping the mast as straight as possible. If planing is a possibility keep the boat as flat as possible and take the mainsheet 2:1 from the boom.

Heavy airs:

Only ease the Outhaul and Cunningham if you can use more power. Set the kicker as for Medium airs or ease to depower.

By spending time on the water preferably with a tuning partner you will be able to establish the right settings for all conditions. This will allow you to concentrate more of your energies on finding the quickest way round the course.